by Tom Kington from www.theguardian.com
Archeologists
in Italy have set about making red wine exactly as the
ancient Romans did, to see what it tastes like.
Based at the University
of Catania in Sicily and supported by Italy's national research centre, a
team has planted a vineyard near Catania using techniques copied from ancient
texts and expects its first vintage within four years.
"We are
more used to archeological digs but wanted to make society more aware of our
work, otherwise we risk being seen as extraterrestrials," said
archaeologist Daniele Malfitana.
At the
group's vineyard, which should produce 70 litres at the first harvest, modern
chemicals will be banned and vines will be planted using wooden Roman tools and
will be fastened with canes and broom, as the Romans did.
Instead of
fermenting in barrels, the wine will be placed in large terracotta pots –
traditionally big enough to hold a man – which are buried to the neck in the
ground, lined inside with beeswax to make them impermeable and left open during
fermentation before being sealed shut with clay or resin.
"We will
not use fermenting agents, but rely on the fermentation of the grapes
themselves, which will make it as hit and miss as it was then – you can call
this experimental archaeology," said researcher Mario Indelicato, who
is managing the programme.
The team has
faithfully followed tips on wine growing given by Virgil in the Georgics,
his poem about agriculture, as well as by Columella, a first century AD grower,
whose detailed guide to winemaking was relied on until the 17th century.
"We have
found that Roman techniques were more or less in use in Sicily up until a few
decades ago, showing how advanced the Romans were," said Indelicato.
"I discovered a two-pointed hoe at my family house on Mount Etna recently
that was identical to one we found during a Roman excavation."
What has
changed are the types of grape varieties, which have intermingled over the
centuries. "Columella mentions 50 types but we can only speculate on the
modern-day equivalents," said Indelicato, who is planting a local variety,
Nerello Mascalese.
"To
sweeten up their wine, which could be vinegary, the Romans added honey and
water to it," he said. "They made better stuff for nobles and
cheaper, more vinegary stuff for slaves. We will try and make both types."
The drinking
habits of Romans have also changed in two millennia. Whereas Italians today
drink moderately with meals, their ancestors were more given to drunken
carousing.
"An
edict was issued in the first century AD halting the planting of vineyards
because people were not growing wheat any more," said Indelicato.
"The
Romans took the concept of getting together for a drink from the Greeks after
they conquered the Greek-controlled Italian city of Taranto in the third
century BC.
"They
drank at festivals to mark the pending harvest, after the harvest. In fact, any
occasion was good for a drink."